Oscalito x Canto Primo

An upcycled capsule re-produced from the unused materials of Oscalito, Turin’s house of luxury intimate wear.

Two houses, one city

For nearly ninety years, Oscalito has made some of Italy’s finest intimate wear in Turin: merino wool, silk, Makò cotton, lace, knitted fine enough to disappear against the skin.

Canto Primo was born in the same city in 2021, with a different starting point. We don’t begin with new fabric. We begin with what already exists, and ask what it could become.

This capsule is where those two ways of working meet.

Oscalito × Canto Primo campaign: model wearing the Sacro Dress among the knitting machines of Oscalito's factory in Turin

What deadstock is

Every fashion house ends up with more material than it uses. Fabric ordered for a collection that changed direction. Rolls left over at the end of a season. A lace that came out of the dye bath slightly different from what was planned.

It is called deadstock: perfectly good, often precious material that the system simply stops seeing. Usually it waits in a warehouse, gets sold off for very little, or is destroyed.

We see it as the most interesting raw material in the industry.

Making the Oscalito × Canto Primo capsule: Oscalito deadstock lace and knit being worked by hand, and the knitting machines of Oscalito's factory in Turin

How the collection was made

The collaboration started in June 2025, more than a year before launch, inside Oscalito. Our team went through their stock piece by piece, classifying every material by fibre, colour, quantity and condition.

Then we designed in reverse. Instead of choosing fabrics for a sketch, each style was drawn around a specific material and the exact amount available. The inventory came first; the collection followed.

It was also our first time working with knitwear. Fine knits behave nothing like denim or tailoring wool: they stretch, slip and react to every cut. That meant new machinery, new processes and a more structured, multi-step production, built on site in Turin together with Oscalito’s own team.

Why only 500 pieces

The capsule includes 15 styles and 500 pieces in total. That number isn’t a marketing decision; it’s how much material there was. When a fabric runs out, the style ends, and it won’t be made again.

The pieces

Each line is named after what its material was, or what it became.

Dimenticato, forgotten. Rib knit in extra-fine Merino wool and silk, and in Egyptian Makò cotton, redrawn with corset piping: the Malbec Top and the Black Top.

Sbagliato, mistaken. A lace that refused the black dye, kept for exactly that reason: the Dark Top and Dark Pants, the Light Top and Light Pants.

Sacro, sacred. Satin, lace and pure silk, cut close to the body: the Sacro Top and the Sacro Dress.

And around them: the III Top Dress, built from three tops; the Doppia Skirt, from what the Sacro Top left behind; the Inferno Taupe Skirt in satin and French lace; the Lux Top; and the Saint Shorts, cut from Oscalito’s vintage pajamas.

Discover the capsule

One of a kind

Alongside the capsule, a small group of unique pieces: existing garments, from tailored blazers to a leather trench, reworked by hand. Some carry Oscalito’s violet lace, the same one used in the capsule. Each exists only once.

Rinascimento Coat in navy wool with Oscalito violet lace, and the Dimenticato Black Top worn with the Inferno Taupe Skirt

Why it matters

This isn’t a one-off gesture. It shows that a manufacturer can turn its own surplus into a new collection, using its own people and machines, and that the method can be repeated.

Oscalito is the first industrial house to adopt this way of producing. We don’t intend it to be the last.

 

FAQ

What is Oscalito × Canto Primo?
A capsule collection designed by Canto Primo and re-produced in Turin from the deadstock of Oscalito, the Turin house of luxury intimate wear founded in 1936. It includes 15 styles and 500 pieces in total.

What materials are used?
Only existing Oscalito deadstock: extra-fine Merino wool and silk, Egyptian Makò cotton (Filoscozia®), satin, French lace, the Sbagliato lace and vintage cotton pajamas. No new fabric was produced.

Where is it made?
In Turin, on site at Oscalito, with Oscalito’s own team and machines.

Will the styles be restocked?
No. Quantities are set by the material available. When a fabric runs out, the style ends.

Where can I buy it?
Online, in the Oscalito × Canto Primo collection. Stores and buyers can write to hello@cantoprimo.com.